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MILNGAVIE
Topographical and Historical
THE first industry in Milngavie is undoubtedly the grain mill now belonging to Mr. John Watt,
and the general opinion is that the mill has given the town its name. A considerable amount of controversy has been engaged in at various times with regard to the exact origin of the name.
Clearly we have to go back to the Gaelic derivation, and, even so, authorities differ. The Gaelic name for a mill is " Muileann " pronounced "Mulnn ; " Gaelic for David is " Daibhigh,"
pronounced " daie," with " a " as in " far." A noun in the genitive preceded by another noun is aspirated, hence "daibhigh"is written "dhaibhigh." " Dh " and " gh" sound alike in Gaelic (see
M'Farlane's Phonetics of the Gaelic language), hence " Muileanndhaibhidh "is pronounced " Mulngaie," the " gh " taking the place of the "dh," and thus we have Mulguy. Timothy Pont, in
his map of i6oo, prints the name as "Milgay." If the interpretation of the name as given above is correct, then the popular idea that it is Gavin's Mill or Guy's Mill is incorrect. We have no
means of ascertaining who is the David referred to, but it must be kept in mind that we have the mill at Strathblane known as Milndavie.
The other industries in the village were Clober Bleaching Works, or Clochbar—meaning the
"Pathway to the Stone," but it is not clear what " Stone " is meant. Bleaching was carried on prior to 1760 in a small way Allan Park. In 1763, a tack of ground was given off by Graeme of
Dougalstoun to M'Gregor of Clober, and this ground the bleachworks were carried on. The distinguished inventor of the steam engine, James Watt, had married a daughter of Mr.
M'Gregor, and Mr. Watt laid out the works and introduced for the first time in Great Britain the chlorine method of bleaching. These were carried on successfully until 1928, when they
were finally closed and dismantled. Bleachworks were also started in 1783 at Craigallian by Mr. Blackwood, and removed to Craigton in 1843, where bleaching is still carried on successfully.
Calico print works were started early in the century, where Clober Crescent now stands, by Walter Weir of Strathblane, whose direct descendants are members of the church to-day. Mr.
Weir built a house for himself with a road of entry where the west entrance to station is. Mr. Weir erected also for his workmen the buildings known as Lower Barloch, which were demolished
about 1931. The print works were carried on by successive owners until 1887, when they were finally closed. A local builder took over the site and built the houses and shops as we know them to-day.
There were also the cotton works where the paper mill now stands. These were carried on by
Messrs. James Donaldson and Co. in the beginning of last century. They were converted into a paper work about 1875. Burnbrae Dyeworks were not in existence in i 8oo, but it is believed
they started business about 1840 and in 1860 they were carried on by Mr. Ross, who afterwards transferred the Works to Messrs. Reid, and they in turn made them over to the
Turkey Red Company. It is said that in their heyday no fewer than 6oo workers were employed, most of whom resided in Milngavie. The work ceased about 1919, and the Works are now all demolished.
With regard to the estates in the neighbourhood, several of them have quite an interesting
history, these having descended from father to son, or otherwise, in lineal descent for centuries. The principal estates upon which Milngavie has been developed are (1) Dougalstoun,
including the lands of Clober ; (2) Barloch ; (3) Mains ; and (4) Montrose.
Dougalstoun early came into the family of Grahams, allied to the ancestors of the Montrose
family, and at the beginning of the i9th century was owned by Henry Glassford, son of James Glassford, one of the great merchant princes and tobacco lords of Glasgow, who had lavished
money in building a large mansion-house, laying down ornamental water ponds and planting trees. This enlightened policy fired the aspirations of succeeding proprietors, and to-day, as a result,
we find noble trees, with arches of variegated foliage over avenues, winding through the Policies for a long distance. Not a few foresters, gardeners, estate and house servants, would he
required to keep the estate and house in order.
Barloch Estate, on which our Church was originally built, is believed to have been in the Douglas
family for over three centuries. The I3arloch Douglas family, it is claimed, were related to the Douglas of Mains, and James Douglas (who was a writer in Glasgow and lived in Barloch House,
as we know it to-day), granted a tack to the Church in i 796. He was one of our first Elders and supported the Church liberally.
Mains has been the seat of the Campbell-Douglas family for many years, and not a few of them
took a prominent part in national movements and historical episodes of the times. Generally their lands occupied the western and southern sides of the Allander, from Tam's Goat to Keystone
Farm, with the important exception of the Milngavie Grain Mill. In 1800, probably Main Street was the most extensively built up area in the village.
The Montrose Estate comprised the area in the north-western part of the village, generally
known as Drumclog, and no buildings, except Drumclog Farm, existed at the opening of the 19th century.
Another estate, of which the name is still familiar with us but which did not impinge directly
on Milngavie village, was that of Barrachan . This estate was from time immemorial in the family
of the Weirs. They were rewarded by the Duke of Montrose by an addition to their estate for providing assistance to repel some bands of Highland raiders who attempted to despoil Mugdock Castle. Out of these lands of
Barrachan, the Glasgow Corporation bought the part on which Mugdock Reservoir was made in 1855 and practically the rest of the land was purchased to make the Craigmaddie Reservoir in 1886
This ended the connection of the Weir family
with Barrachan, the last laird being James Weir, who was long a member of our Church, as were some of his forebears, and he for a time acted as Clerk of the Managers, a position which
his son John fills at this day. It is extremely difficult to detail the various houses inhabited in Milngavie at the outset of our Church's history, and there is no record extant to assist us in
this, but it is an enticing task to attempt such exploration.
The first church or "meeting house," as it was called in those days, was situated in Mugdock
Road. This is, without doubt, the oldest road in the district as it led to Mugdock Castle, the seat of the Graham family—now known as the Montrose. The records show that this goes back
about 6oo years. The road had its importance, as not only leading to the Castle of Mugdock but also to the Village of Mugdock, which, in days of old, seemed rather a place of some
consequence, for we read that there was erected "The Towne and Burgh of Mugdock into a free Burgh of Regalitie. To be called then and in all time comein The Burgh of Regalitie of Mugdock
and head Burgh of the said Regalitie of Montrose." The right of holding a weekly mercat each Friday and two free fairs yearly was granted. There was the right of trial and of execution,
and Gallowshill is still identified where the guilty were hanged, or, if women, where they were drowned at the Gallows foot. In the glen, where the burn from Mugdock Loch falls steeply over
the rocks, a mill (long since demolished) stood, and doubtless this would increase the traffic on our Mugdock Road. It will be thus seen that Mugdock was rather a stirring place in days gone
by and a centre of trade and happenings— far removed from the placid and out-of-the-world quiet haven of to-day.
Coming back to our Church, in close proximity we would have the " Kirk Raw," a row of
two-storey houses, with storm windows on the upper flat. These a few of us still remember as rather dilapidated and weather-beaten: they were demolished about 1914. On the hill to the
east stood Barloch House, and still stands, with its rampart-like wall enclosing it, where lived the Laird James Douglas aforesaid. The Woodlands district was not developed, it is believed,
until about 1840, and probably the only houses existing were the " Hielan Raw" houses—it is thought called so because originally occupied by the cotton workers who came from Deanston,
Perthshire, in 1795 to work in the local cotton works. They were one storey cottages with roomy apartments, though only of the " but-and-ben " type. It has been said that often in the
old days voices might be heard on Sabbath morning raised in praise at the family altar, as can be well understood, for many of those members of the " Relief" in Perthshire were enthusiastic
Dissenters and afterwards helped on the Cause when they removed to Milngavie. Almost immediately opposite was built, in 1808, the manse of our Church, which stands to-day,
renovated and repaired, and shows how excellent in quality were the workmen of those far-off days.
Proceeding southwards down Mugdock Road, we come to the entrance to Allander House as we
know it to-day. Here, somewhat back from the road, there existed a smithy, occupied by James Gardiner—of whom hereafter—with adjoining house, and, farther back, the cotton works,
now (but considerably extended) occupied by the paper mill; probably also a house belonging to the proprietor of the cotton works. At the south side of the Allander House garden, there
stood a shop at one time belonging to and occupied by James Paterson, grocer, facing southwards, and then, at right angles and facing Mugdock Road, a row of dwellings, all of
which are now demolished, the site being used as a parking place.
On the opposite side of Mugdock Road on the site of Rockbank, there was no building at the beginning of the i9th century, Rockbank not having been built till 1823, when it was owned and
occupied by Dr. Smart. Immediately south there existed a small building used as a school for a time, and alongside, later, on the site of Houston's Dairy, a two-storey building stood, in the
upper storey of which the Rev. Mr. M'Naughton taught a youths' Bible class. M'Arthur's Building did not exist for 30 or 40 years after, but south of this, a building, known as "The Camp,"
stood. This was a two-storey building, self-contained, standing well above the street and having its approaches at either end by an arched pathway, somewhat steep and narrow. It, however,
fell from its proud and exalted estate in latter days in being used as a common lodging-house—filled no doubt to overflowing when the Mugdock Reservoir was in the process of
making. No other buildings are believed to have existed in Cheapside at the time we speak of, and we shall continue our perambulations into Douglas Street. A bridge for years unnumbered
would be necessary over the Allander, to connect with the main road from Milngavie to Glasgow. Crossing the bridge on the left, the site of the War Memorial Grounds was not occupied until
1851, when the gas works were started. On the right-hand side next the Allander, a yearly fair was held —the last being in 1830—where cattle were sold, and wives, it is said, were "
niffered " or exchanged—an unusual subject of a mercat and speculative to a degree. Unfortunately we have no record how such a solution to domestic tangles succeeded. On this
ground there were buildings erected, one of which was utilised by the Mechanics Institute—brought into being in 1836—where was housed a considerable library; it was also used
as a school, known as the Bridge School. Another building was used as a bank. Proceeding west along Douglas Street, we find a smithy, occupied later by Mr. Sproul, and a joinery, in which
afterwards Mr. M'Millan carried on business. Then we have the Douglas Arms, occupied by Mr. Bissland and, at a later day, by Mr. M. Weir. There is a tradition that Rob Roy made
periodical visits to this hostelry and engaged in bouts of wrestling with the local Hercules. Although handicapped, as he was, by a short stature, it might be surmised his length of arm
would more than compensate for his lack of height in such contests.
Proceeding now down Main Street, or King's Mill Road as it was known of old (this name has no
reference whatever to the Grain Mill), we would find on the western side a row of two storey houses - now swept away - and an inn, almost opposite the Black Bull. There were several shops
on the Street level, and, before the rise of Newton, Main Street was undoubtedly the shopping Street of the village. The Black Bull was not erected untjl about 1827. Besides being a place
for the refreshment of man and beast, it served the public in divers ways. The Horticultural Show for a period was held there, and again the Justices of the Peace held their courts within
its precincts and tried the local delinquents. This well-known hotel alone has survived its contemporaries. In later years, the post office business was carried on in a building adjoining.
Farther south we have the entrance to the grain mill which, as already indicated, is one of the
oldest institutions of Milngavie. Immediately south of the road to the mill there stood in Main Street, a two storey building used as dwelling-houses, and near by a similar building occupied
the site known as Shillinghill, while again, on the site of Allandcr Terrace, was a one—storey row of thatched cottages. All of these have been swept away, replaced, in the two latter
cases, by buildings as we know them to-day.
On the opposite side of the street, south of Stewart Street and on the site of the Picture
House, we would find a two—storey tenement, with Stairs on the outside facing the street, which some of us will remember as very decrepit and ready for demolition. Corbiehia Farm
buildings were behind A whitewashed cottage alone is left to-day of the original erections.
Retracing our steps to Station Road, on the south where C1ober Crescent stands, early in the
century the calico print works before referred to were established, and these, afterwards carried on by James Black & Co., were considerablv extended until they spread from the west
entrance to the station westwards to the Allander Water, with mechanics' shop and settling ponds on the north side of the ground at Douglas Street. These works in the palmiest days
carried on an extensive business, and employed no fewer than 400 workers, but bad times came to this trade and they were finally closed in 1887. On the opposite side of Station Road, no
buildings existed at the opening of our history, there being open ground and green fields from Cheapside to Hillhead Brae. The brae led to Hillhead houses, which to-day still stand and are
very old. At the east end, we find Hillhead School, or the " Dames " School, as it was sometimes called, carried on in succession by Miss Anderson, Miss Bain, Miss Kinloch, Miss Hosie
(afterwards Mrs. Walter Weir), and Miss Gregorson. This building, repaired and altered, is used to-day by the County Education Committee for Domestic Science. A quarry in close
proximity was operated by the Dougalston Estate for building purposes.
Returning to Station Road, there were nothing but open fields on both sides until we arrive at
the site of St. Luke's Church, on which, in these days, a successful blacksmithy was carried on by James Gardiner, one of the first Elders of the Church and a firm supporter of it for 40
years. A house of two storeys existed, with a large smithy in which, when trade flourished, twelve men were employed, and in one of the buildings outside, a Sunday School of the Church
was carried on. Presbyterial dinners were held in the house as occasion required, and from the records, these seem to have been of generous proportions and doubtless of the most satisfying
character. Passing Buchanan Street of to-day, which then, of course, did not exist, and the site of the Burgh Hall, sometime occupied as a bleaching-green, and the open ground on which
Hall Place is built, we come to a two-storey building, self-contained, which was occupied for several years by a doctor, and a row of single-storey houses extending to M'Aulay's. All of
these were taken down in 1932 to make room for the neat and substantial houses erected by the Town Council.
At the extreme end, we would have seen " M'Aulay's," the most characteristic and kenspeckle
for more than a century of our local buildings. It was in this house that "Jeems M'Aulay," a name familiar to the town and surrounding district for many years, was born and wherein he died at the age of 92, in 1926. His forebears for long had been in the district, and one was
made a Manager of the Church in 1819—" Peter M'Aulay, Dougalston." Mr. M'Aulay himself was baptised in the Church and became a member, and remained such until his death. He acted as a Manager for many years
and subsequently became Preses of the Board of Managers. He took an interest in the affairs of the town, and filled the position of Chief Magistrate soon after the Burgh was
formed, being its third Provost. Mr. M'Aulay carried on the business of carrier and general contractor in the buildings in Strathblane
Road, which in later years has developed into quite extensive dimensions. No one was more highly respected in our community, and no name stood higher for probity, straightforward
dealing and public—spirited, disinterested service. It is gratifying that the name should continue to be honoured in our midst to-day in a like manner in Mr. M'Aulay's family, and particularly in
our Church, his son William being a Manager at present, and having acted for a period as Preses, as did his father.
Crossing Strathblane Road, we would find on the site of St. Paul's Church, a row of
one-storeyed houses, extending some way eastwards up Garwhitter Brae, occupied originally by workers on the Dougalston Estate. These houses were demolished in 1904 when Paul's Church
was erected. On the east side of Strathblane Road there existed, and some still stand, a series of two-storeyed tenements, the oldest probably being that at Lower Barloch a substantial
building erected by Walter Weir for the occupation by his operatives in the calico print works. This building was demolished about 10 years ago, when became dangerously unsafe. On the west
side of Strathblane Road, there were no houses or buildings of any kind from M'Aulay's northwards—nothing but grazing fields.
Retracing our steps, the only buildings probably of south of Garwhitter in Glasgow Road,
existing in 1800 were the " Black Lands "—four substantial stone-built tenements on the east side of the road where villas now stand. These buildings were taken down about 1892.
Barloch House. This house, now the oldest dwelling in the Burgh, having been erected about
170 years ago, was the home of the Lairds of Barloch. As already mentioned, when our congregation was formed and the church built, James Douglas was the laird and became an
cider early in the Church's history. He proved a strenuous supporter and helped in many ways to maintain the Congregation in being. The house to-day stands much as it did in 1800, and is
occupied by Mr. James D. Ogilvie, one of our Elders. To-day, we have a descendant of the Douglas family in Dr. Carstairs Douglas of Garwhitter, who has felt the home call of his
ancestors and come to make his residence amongst us.
Having given, it is feared, a rather incomplete survey of the topography of our town as it was
150 years ago, let us now endeavour to narrate the story - entrancing and heart-stirring -of the beginning of our Congregation.
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